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Model T Ford

Restoration Notes

The car was originally restored in the mid 1970's.  It was well-used for probably 7 or 8 years after that,  but then sat on blocks from the early 1980's until 2005.  Even if a car has been restored, a twenty year operational hiatus will pretty much require another restoration to make things beautiful again.  On the other hand, this car was a driver, not a show car, so it was never as perfect as the cars you might find in a museum.  We put thousands of miles on the car taking it on camping trips during the summer.  It's not going to be museum quality this time around either: for the moment, I'm planning on just getting it running well so I can take it out camping again just like the old days.  Only this time, I'll let my kids drive me around the countryside instead of me driving my dad around like the 1970's.  How cool is that?

April 2005

Time to get busy if this thing is going to run in the Las Cumbres July Fourth neighborhood parade this year.

Basic Needs:

•  Tire and tubes
•  Fuel System
•  Front-end rebuild

I was impressed that the tires held up for the 20 years that the car was in storage.  They lasted all the way down to California, too.  They started to crap out once parked in its new home.  One front tire went flat overnight, and the other front tire went flat with a bang.  I guess that after twenty years of being unpressurized and on blocks, a couple of weeks of pressurization was all they could take.

The fuel tank had about 3 gallons of very bad gas in it that got donated to the Hazmat drop-off at the Ben Lomond Transfer Station.  I knew I would have to clean the carb, so I took it off along with the manifolds.  The exhaust manifold was cracked right through one of the carb mount bolt holes.  If I remember right, it was cracked that way 30 years ago, so I wasn't going to worry about it.  Unfortunately, once I got the floatbowl off, it turned out that the carb was a mess of rust down below.  I suspect that it wouldn't really matter if it was this rusty.  After all, this carb only has one fixed jet (shown in the picture), and one adjustable needle jet.  As long as the main jet was not totally plugged up, I figure that you could probably just tweak the needle jet to make things work OK. Even so, I decided to keep an eye out for a replacement.

The front-end is pretty sloppy on this car.  That would probably be because we didn't have the proper reamers back in 1975 to size all of the brass bushings in the front end.  I remember hand-filing the bushings with a small round file until I could make things fit.  By that point, I'm sure that the holes bore very little relation to the shape "round".  They should be just fine for parade duty though, so I'll only bother with that if I have time.  I still don't own the proper reamer though.  Maybe I'll bore them on the lathe.  They might still end up a bit sloppy, but at least the holes will be round.

23-April

I won an eBay auction for a complete set of manifolds (intake & exhaust) along with a rebuilt Holley Vaporizer ($200  shipped).  Let the spending begin...

Total so far: $200.  [My dad kept careful records about how much he spent on that car, so I thought I would continue the tradition]

29-April

I won another ebay auction, this time for all 6 issues of the 1979 edition of "Vintage Ford" magazine.  Why 1979?  Well, there's a good reason: The cover of the Volume14 Number 5 issue shows our car on the cover.  In fact, that would be my dad pretending to wrench on the car on a cold fall day in Calgary.  I remember that they took that photo at Heritage Park up in Calgary, Alberta.  I spent way more than the magazines were worth ($42) but how do you put a price on sentimental value? 

Total so far: $242

30-April

Removed the transmission bands.  The Reverse band looked new.   The Low band showed some wear, but looked serviceable.  The brake band was pretty much shot, as can be seen in the photo.  The brake band was about half as thick as a new band would be, and the corner was worn completely off.  I decided to try some kevlar bands from Snyder's instead of the old cotton linings.  Talk about "old meets new": I figure that with kevlar, the new bands should be bullet-proof, so to speak.  We'll see.

While ordering the bands, I got some miscellaneous parts from Synder's as well.  For example, we never did find the ignition key back in Calgary.  Fortunately, they are extremely easy to come by.  The ignition switch is stamped with 2-digit number, and that number is enough to identify the key needed to start the car.  Not very theft-proof.

Total was $140 shipped.

Total so far: $382

1-May

Removal of the fuel tank from the car was not as easy as the manual made it out to be.   I ended up taking the right side kick panel off and its wood backing so that I could remove the dash.  Getting the dash out was a tight fit, too.  Once the dash was off, the tank came out easily.  Now I need to get it cleaned inside and out.  Mainly inside though: it still has the distinctive aroma of "bad gas" inside it. 

I pulled the front rims off and removed the tires and tubes.  The rims looked pretty crappy.  Neither seemed to have their mounting holes in the right spot.  One was pretty bent up, too.  I think I will look into some new rims.  I found a place that sells them for $185 each.  I would have pulled the back wheels off too, but there was not enough room in the garage to get back there.

From Macs, I got the rest of the tire-related stuff, except for the tires themselves:

Total was $167 shipped.

The tires got ordered from Coker.  It still slays me that you can just buy tires for vehicles that are nearly 100 years old.

Total was $658 shipped (ouch).  Now I know why they still make tires for vehicle that are nearly 100 years old. 

Total so far: $1207 in the first week or so.   Oh well, you gotta have a hobby, right?

5-May

Got the gas tank back from RadiatorLand (A.K.A. AutoLand) in Santa Clara.  It was cleaned, flushed, coated with some red preservative inside the tank, and sprayed black on the outside.  Looks nice, inside and out.  I suppose that a purist would not have used the red preservative, or painted the outside black.  Oh well, this car is supposed to be a "runner", not a museum piece.

Cost: $180, total so far: $1387

7-May

Touched up a few spots on the gas tank with black paint.  Removed the old riveted rubber straps from the steel straps that hold the gas tank in place.  Wire-brushed and painted the steel straps.  Will rivet on the new straps after the paint dries.

21-May

Riveted on new rubber to the steel gas-tank straps.  Remounted the tank in the cowl and put the dash back on. 

Ordered some Robertson screws from McFeely's since the car was always missing one of the screws holding the dash on.  It would seem that the Canadian Fords were put together with Canadian fasteners, so a lot of the fasteners on the car have square-drive Robertson heads on them.  Got a couple of new Robertson screwdrivers to replace my old ones.  Cost: $22, total so far: $1409.

28-30 May

Celebrated the Memorial Day weekend by taking the old front tires to the lovely Ben Lomond Transfer Station along with the old cat-scratching post known as our living room couch, and a bunch of other crap. 

Started working on the fuel tank sediment bowl.  To get it apart, remove the big nut that holds the gas valve packing in, remove the washer and the packing, then insert an old bolt down the main gas inlet and drive the brass innards out the other side.  I got it apart and cleaned it out.  It was basically entirely full of evil-smelling sediment.  As you can see, the filter screen was destroyed over the years.  I cleaned it out as best I could.  The current plan is to put it back together as a flow-through device with an external shutoff and fuel filter.  To aid in that, I machined a piece of brass to use in place of the old packing material.  The idea would be to put a bit of gasket sealer on the face of the inner brass valve body and clamp it in place using the new brass 'packing' material.  As long as it is leak-free, everything will be fine.

The body of the sediment bowl got wire-brushed inside and out, then primed and painted in my fine outdoor spray booth, also known as the driveway.

6-Jun

Riveted the new Kevlar transmission band linings to the bands.  The Kevlar material is pale yellow.  The technique to mount the bands is shown on the right.  You rivet the two ends first.  The extra band lining material bunches up in a bulge at the bottom of the band.  Then, you work the bulge out by squishing it against the band.  That serves to make sure that the lining conforms to the shape of the metal band.  After putting in all the rivets. I poured some Mobil-1 on the new band linings.  The original instructions said that new linings should be soaked in oil before installation, but I figure that this is close enough.  Kevlar and synthetic oil: two things that they probably couldn't imagine back in 1927.

I drained the oil in preparation for installing the new transmission bands.  That, and the oil is about 25 years old, so it was probably due for a change.

Put the sediment bowl back together and mounted it.  Wire brushed the fuel tank overflow tube and primed it.  I would have painted it too, but I forgot it outside until after dark when it was too cold to paint.  Not to mention too dark, too.  While painting, I noticed a dead rat in the middle of the floor on my flatbed trailer.  It had been eaten, except for the guts which had been removed and placed carefully in a neat pile to one side.  I suspect aliens.

11-Jun

Got the right front tire mounted on the rim.  It was about 25 years since I last changed a tire on that car, so it took me a while to remember that it helps to inflate the tube just enough to fill out its shape before expanding the rim again.  This ensures that the tube will not get pinched between the tire bead and the rim while spreading the rim.  And speaking of spreading the rim, mounting a Model-T tire is basically impossible unless you have a rim spreader. 

The picture shows the basic kit required to change a tire:

•  A genuine antique Ford wrench
•  A genuine antique rim spreader
•  A big, heavy hammer to beat things into place

Painted the fuel overflow tube, too.  I seem to have lost the little threaded hook that holds the tube in place against the firewall.  Nuts.

12-Jun

Mounted the overflow tube using the setscrew at the sediment bulb.  I will need to make a new hook.

Pulled the radiator off to take it down to get inspected.  The bolts holding the water outlet/fan mount to the top of the cylinder head were kind of hard to get out due to clearance problems with the socket.  There were no flat washers under the bolt which didn't help things either.  I am going to put a jam nut under a slightly longer bolt to make the head stick out enough to get a socket on it.  I pulled the side water outlet off as well.  I chased the holes in the block with a 7/16-14 tap to clean them out.  I will also use some anti-seize when putting things back on.  That will really help the next time I remove them.  And check out that brand new front tire!

Pulled off the timer and cleaned it.  The timer brush drive pin was replaced at some point with a cotter pin.  I suppose that I could have made a new pin, but I settled for putting some safety wire on the cotter pin to keep if from coming out of its hole.  The timer still looks in good shape, so I will not bother to replace it.  The wiring is another issue though.  Two of the wires going to the timer had about 4 strands of wire left and were about to break off.  They will need to be replaced.

The Giants got swept at home by the Indians.

18-Jun

More parts showed up from Mac's:

After shipping, it's another $91: total is up to $1500 on the nose.

Took the radiator to the repair shop earlier this week.  They called to say that they didn't want to rod it out because they  thought it would get destroyed in the process.  They also said that installing a new core would run $600.  Since a new radiator is currently about $650, this didn't seem like a great deal.  We settled for a flush and leak repair.

Made a new wiring harness for the timer.  I was able to match the color code except for blue, so orange is the new blue.  The wires are routed in a slightly different fashion than the last set.  I think that the new method should make the harness last longer: it was the "blue" (orange) wire that was almost broken on the original wiring, which I figure was due to the way that it went backwards into the wiring harness in the original setup.

Wire-brushed the crank handle and primed it.  I never noticed that there is a 'Ford' script stamped into the back of the crank arm until I cleaned it.

Tried to make another radiator brace rod.  I remember that I made the one that is currently on the car back when I was in shop class back in high school.  The threads were terrible on one end.  I remember asking my teacher what I did wrong and he told me that you have to back up the die once in a while as you go down so that the chips break off.  The threads on the other end were much better, so I knew that he was right.  So now that I know a bit more about such things, I noticed that the threads I cut back then were the wrong pitch.  I cut the threads to be 5/16-18 back then, and it turns out that the radiator mount is 5/16-24.  That explains why the rod only ran in a couple of turns all those years.  I cleaned out the radiator mount hole with the proper sized tap.  That went OK.  Unfortunately, I couldn't get the die to start straight on my new brace rod.  It doesn't help that the new rod is some stainless alloy.  I always have a hard time trying to put threads on stainless rod.  There must be a trick to that that I haven't learned yet. 

Giants lost to Detroit.

22-Jun

Ordered more parts from Mac's:

The pull rod turned out not to fit given the outside oil-line.  Other than that, it would have been great.  The transmission band wrench tool is OK, but a piece of baling wire seems to work just as well.  The fan hub was back-ordered, so I guess the fan will continue to sling grease all over the inside of the engine for a while longer.

Total this time: $83.  Overall, $1583.

26-Jun

Tires, round two.  Well, not quite round.  The spare rim is a bit out of round to the point that I can only get three of four holes to line up on the rim.  This is a traditional  problem as near as I can tell since most Model-T rims that I have seen usually have at least one of their holes filed to an oblong shape so that some owner along the way could hammer the mounting bolt through the rim hole.  Anyway, two new tires are on: one front, and one spare.  I need a new rim though.  The front rim only had one of its retaining pin loops when I started.  By the time I finished, it had didn't have any.  That should be OK for a parade, but not for serious use.

Almost finished installing the transmission bands.  I came up one spring short.  It better not be inside the transmission...

Here is the sequence of events to get the band installed.  Basically, you feed the band installer around the transmission drum, then attach it to one of the rivet head, and pull the whole mess through.  Once the far end of the band comes around, you can install the removable ear.  Once the ear is on, you rotate the band back to where the ear goes.  Then, squeeze the band ends together and use a piece of soft iron baling wire to hold the ears tight together.  With the ears held together, it is easy to put on the special washer and special nut.

I am happy to report that the entire band replacement was done without dropping a single part into the transmission.  I am going to leave the transmission oil strainer off until the bands have been adjusted a couple of times and settle in.

Other tasks completed today:

•  Replaced the short BAT wire on the back of the ignition switch.  The ancient insulation was gone and our 1970's repair of wrapping it in vinyl electrical tape was lame.  In the intervening years, I acquired a crimper which got put to good use.
•  Flushed the outside oil line.  It was completely clear and free of from the old cotton bands.

I also re-inflated the rear tires.  They still seem to hold air, although maybe only half as much as they should have been holding.  It would seem that they are OK for the short term though.  That is a good thing since they might have to wait to get replaced because it is too hard to get back into that part of the garage to get access to them. 

Ordered spare transmission springs and new special washers from Sacramento Vintage Ford.  The washers have a dimple in them and the nuts have a corresponding V-shaped notch.  The idea is that the nuts can be rotated with a wrench to adjust the band tension, but the dimple and notch keep the nuts from rotating themselves off inside the transmission.  The dimple on the washers was rubbed down over the years, and the washers were slightly deformed from the pressure of people stepping on the pedals.  I hammered the washers flat again in a vise, but the dimple restoration was beyond me.  They were not expensive, so I sprang for two.

Total with shipping, $14.  $1597 so far.

Ordered some parts from McMaster.  Who could believe that a 1/8 NPT male-to-male 90 degree elbow would be so hard to find?

Total shipped: $32.  Total so far: $1629.

Made a list of things to do before the car will run.  It is kind of long, and July 4th is coming up fast.

In inter-league play, the Giants lost to the A's 16-0.  Oy.

28-June

Picked up the radiator from RadiatorLand.  They said that it was getting pretty "thin", and that this would be the last repair they could do on it before they would have to replace the core.  They said a new core would cost $700 or so.  Mac's has new radiators for $650, so I guess I know what I will do when the time comes.

Total: $65 [$1694]

July-1

Happy Birthday to the real Mookie-Dog: she is 15 years old today.  She celebrated by eating garlic bread and ribs at 5AM.  She was restless that morning, so I let her out for an early morning stroll.  When she didn't come back after about 1/2 an hour, I went looking for her.  I found her out front going through the remains of some spilled trash.  When it got light out, I could see greasy raccoon footprints all over the porch.  Then I noticed a pile of rib bones picked clean sitting on the seat of my motorbike, along with greasy raccoon footprints all over the motorbike, from windshield to tail section.

I took the day off work to see if I could get enough the car done for the parade on the 4th.  It turned out to be a good thing... 

I oiled the lifters and made sure they were not stuck, then put a new gasket on the valve cover and put that back on.  I chased the threads on the manifold studs, put the manifolds on. Then I attached the exhaust.  This time, I knew about anti-seize, so the exhaust threads got a coating before the packing nut went on.  

The top water outlet went back on after being cleaned and painted.  I used some RTV sealer on the cast iron since it was so pitted from age.  I figured that the RTV would fill the pits and keep it from leaking.  I remember that the old hoses we used the first time around tended to leak, probably for that reason.  The three-piece hose/pipe/hose on the bottom was not as easy to get on as I was hoping, involving a bit of cussing before it went on.  The cast iron got the same RTV treatment as the top outlet.  The fan belt was installed and adjusted, and then the fan itself got installed.  Finally, the radiator went back on.

The new radiator brace rod went on and fit perfectly, now that the radiator mount threads had been chased.

I put the new transmission spring in, adjusted the bands as well as I could, and closed up the transmission.  The dash got bolted down with the new [but unoriginal] stainless steel Philips-head screws.  They might be wrong, but they look nice.  The instrument switch panel get its wires reattached, and the result got reinstalled in the dash.  Having the dash back on allowed me to replace the wood for the door hinge, reinstall the kick-panel, and attach the door strap again.

The fuel line got attached, too.  I had to solder a piece of thin-wall brass tubing to the existing gas line to convert it from being 1/4 inch OD to 3/8 OD.  The new shutoff valve has a fuel filter attached directly to its outlet with a short section of rubber tube where it attaches to the existing gas line.  It looks pretty neat, actually.

I got so far that at the end of the day, I realized that I would need a battery for the next day to try and start it.  I ended up zipping down to the valley and just making it to A&M before they closed to pick up an AC Delco 6-volt battery that fit into the battery holder just fine.  Got some hose clamps for the new sectional radiator hose, too.  The battery gets charged with my find HP power supply that my buddy John repaired for me.  He showed me how to put in constant-current mode for battery charging, so I charged the battery at 350 mA for about 8 hours to get it ready for the big day tomorrow.

Total: $75 [$1769]

2-July

Things are getting pretty interesting at this point: I put in a gallon of Delo 15W-40 motor oil.  I just felt like using diesel oil, and detergent oil at that.  I know I am breaking all kinds of Model-T rules, but I don't actually care at this point.  The new oil stayed inside the motor, so it counted as a total success.

The radiator got filled with water.  Amazingly enough, there were no water leaks either.  The car used to dribble a bit from time to time, so the guys at RadiatorLand must had done a good job.

I made a wood floor for the battery bracket and put the battery in, using zip-ties to make sure that the floor wouldn't just shake out from the bumps.  With the battery installed, I checked out the ignition coils.  They all seemed fine.  In the old days, my brother and I adjusted the coils to get the biggest, longest, fattest, most-purple sparks we could.  We would bend those coil point adjuster springs until the sparks were about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long.  Later on, I found out that you were really supposed to adjust them by bending the springs until the coil was drawing 1.2 Amps.  I didn't readjust them though.  I figured that if they lasted all those years producing 3/4 inch lightning bolts, they would last a bit longer.

Then, it was the moment of truth #1: adding gasoline.  This is mainly exciting because if it turns out that there are leaks, it can get pretty interesting to get the gas out of the car's fuel tank and back into the gas can while it is leaking all over the floor.  In this case, there were no leaks at all.

Then, it was moment of truth #2: trying to start the car.  I should point out that this car has an electric starter, but:

1. The starters of the era were not that great
2. 6-Volt batteries are not great at powering starters of that era
3. Electric starters are for wussies anyway

After about 8 billion turns of the crank and case of "rubber arm", I was ready to admit that in spite of 1) and 2), electric starters were a good invention.  As we learned way back when, the big problem in getting an engine started the first time is that the carburetion was pretty sensitive:  too rich or too lean, and that engine just won't even pop, much less start and run.  Back in the 1970's, our Model-T experts told us to turn the dashboard mixture control to one and a half turns out from closed.  After about 8 billion cranks back then, we discovered that our carb only needed 3/4 of a turn.  I was using 3/4 of a turn, but since this was a new carb, maybe it needed something else.  So I tried one and a half turns, and half a turn, and full choke, and no choke,  and starting fluid and no starting fluid, but not much happened.  It ran on starting fluid for about one second, so at least I knew the ignition was working.  I finally decided to stop cranking for a while before I got a coronary and we called over our neighbours Ash and Ing Marie.  Ing Marie's brother Janne was in town from Sweden, and he is a car nut so I figured I could get some help from him, if only to take a turn at the crank.  So when they showed up, I gave the crank one last pull and the engine fired right up and ran perfectly.  I checked the mixture knob: 3/4 of a turn, just like the old days.  I don't know what its problem was for the first 8 billion tries, but it seems OK now.

We let it warm up until there was only one thing to do: go for a ride!  I backed it out of the garage, but not without incident.  Mary's Fordham flexible shaft grinder had somehow got wrapped around the spare tire carrier.  When I backed out, it tore the power cable right out of the motor.  I'll have to fix that again.  Crap.

But we did get out of the garage.  Unfortunately, I could not get out of the driveway.  It is a bit steep, and my adjustment to the low-gear band was not enough, so even though the engine roared, the band slipped, and the car stopped.  We slid back into the driveway for another adjustment.  And another.  Finally, we got out and hit the road.

We went for a couple of runs up and down the road.  Here is a video of one of the test runs. 

Everyone got a ride or two.  Janne got the most interesting ride though.  When making a sharp left turn that I had made three or four times before, the steering went all weird.  It felt like the tie rod broke.  Normally, this is a fairly large problem in any car, but at this point we were about 6 feet from the edge of what can only be described as a very steep hillside, and the car was refusing to turn back towards the road.  I applied all possible brakes, but that does not mean much in a Model-T.  As we slowed, the car bounced over a big rock and came to a halt just before going over the edge and down the hillside.  A normal car would have had its undercarriage taken out by the rock, but a Model-T is built for rock hopping, and nothing bad happened as a result of that.  I got out and took a look under the car and saw what happened.  It turns out that Model-T's were built before lawyers discovered class-action lawsuits.  If a Model-T gets turned hard enough and far enough to the left, the pitman arm can go "over center", at which point the steering starts working backwards.  Kind of disconcerting if you are making a U-turn on a mountain road, but we survived to tell the tale.

I think I parked it after that incident.  A couple hours later, some other neighbours came by and we decided to go out for another ride.  When I turned the fuel on, gasoline sprayed out the carb overflow with great vigor.  I shut the gas back off and it stopped immediately.  At least I knew that my shutoff valve was working perfectly.  I removed the float bowl and the float, and cleaned the seat.  It looked perfect.  I shook the float, but it seemed to be dry.  I put it all back together, and it still leaked.  I compromised by filling the float bowl, shutting the gas off, starting the car, and then trying to drive it up the steep driveway into the garage before it ran out of gas.  It took two tries and a small push, but we got it back in.  There was going to be one last problem to fix before the 4th, but we would be gone all day of the 3rd.  Mary and I had signed up to work on a fireworks crew, shooting off a fireworks show up at Hidden Valley Lake, about 20 miles away from Calistoga, CA.

4-July

We got home from the fireworks show about 10:30 AM, after about 5 hours of sleep and three hours of driving.  I got right to work and took off the float bowl again.  This time, I could tell that the float was full of gas, and hence, was not doing much floating.  That explained why it was not shutting off the gas flow.  Fortunately, this was the float that came with my eBay carb, so I still had the original.  Mary cleaned up the old float, and it went back in.  Unfortunately, even with the new float, we had gas leak from a different place.  This time, it was around the float bowl drain.  I solved that by cleaning the old float bowl, and putting a little Hylomar sealer on the gasket.  That worked fine, and we were in business.  At this point, it was about 20 minutes to parade time, so I took the car out, warmed it up and headed for the starting line.

And finally, the parade.  Everyone starts behind the fire truck.  This picture just shows the start: everyone says that this was the biggest parade ever.  Someone gave us hell about the Canadian flag, but hey, Canada Day is July 1, and both the car and I were made in Canada, so the flag stayed on.  Well, it stayed on until the duct tape gave up in the heat and it fell off.  Ian got to drive the go-kart in the parade.  He had a good time driving it all over the neighbourhood that day.

Now I just need to fix the steering.  It is really, really bad.  Maybe there is something I can do to keep it from driving me over a cliff, too.

September

I finally got around to trying to tighten up the steering.  I turned the bottom of the steering shaft to a consistent diameter since it had worn quite a bit where the original bushing was located.  I machined a brass bushing to fit the new shaft diameter and pressed it in.  While I was in the area, I committed a minor blasphemy and drilled and tapped the steering mount through the new bushing to accept a modern grease fitting.

I put on a new Pitman arm since the original one was so out of round it was visible to the naked eye.  I tried using some of the new brass caps for the Pitman arm and tie rod end balls, but they did not seem to be large enough diameter, so I ended up using the original caps.  The originals had been filed over the years in a vain attempt to tighten things up.  This meant that they were too tight for the new round balls, so I cut some shims out of 0.008 copper sheet to give everything a bit of breathing room.  That worked pretty well but I can tell you that a 0.008 copper shim makes a great knife edge to slit the ends of your fingers as you try to spin the nuts on.

The steering is much better now.  It still needs a bit of work though.  There is some slop up at the top inside the reduction gear box, and also where the gear box mounts to the steering column.

It will be worth it in the end.

Random Links:

For what they are worth...

Projects Model T  • History of this car  • Importing to the USA  • Operating a Model-T  • Cover Girl  • Restoration Notes

Random Image:

Wright Cyclone in full song.

Random Wisdom:

"Don't Drink and Drill."

  - Al D.